Knitting machine and method



Dec. 19, 1961 o. FREGEOLLE KNITTING MACHINE AND METHOD 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Dec. 24, 1959 ATTORNEY R m W W.

BY SCQR REGEOLLE Dec. 19, 1961 o. FREGEOLLE KNITTING MACHINE AND METHOD 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Dec. 24, 1959 REGULAR FEED AUXILIARY FEED Q s 7 U IVW IN VEN TOR. OSCAR FREGEOLLE A TTORNE Y Dec. 19, 1961 o. FREGEOLLE 3,013,416

KNITTING MACHINE AND METHOD Filed Dec. 24, 1959 5 Sheets-Sheet 3 REGULAR FEED 55 AUXILIARY FEED INVENTOR. Oscnk FREGEOLLE Z24 FMMZE A TTORNEY Dec. 19, 1961 o. FREGEOLLE 3,013,416

KNITTING MACHINE AND METHOD Filed Dec. 24, 1959 5 Sheets-Sheet 4 REGULAR FEED AUXILIARY FEED INVENTOR. .Oscnn FREGEOLLE A TTORNE Y Dec. 19, 1961 o. FREGEOLLE KNITTING MACHINE AND METHOD 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 Filed Dec. 24, 1959 BOTTOM Tea lNs'rsPTnB IN V EN TOR.

L OscnR FREGE c-LE BY I A TTORNE Y.

3,013,416 KIQETTEIJG MACHINE AND METHOD Pscar Frcgeoiie, Lincoln, 12.1., assignor to Draper Corporation, Hopedale, Mass, a corporation of Maine Filed Dec. 24, 1959, Ser. No. 361,962 12 Ciaims. (iii. 66-48) This invention pertains to improvements in knitting machines and methods of knitting specifically useful in theproduction of a stocking toe.

it is a general object of the invention to devise a method of forming a toe in an article of hosiery by which a toe heretofore contemplated, but only recently produced commercially, may be readily knitted on an existing type of hosiery machine and also so to modify that machine as to make possible the carrying out of the method.

A further object is that of forming such hosiery in a circular, independent needle, knitting machine having a feeding station through which needles are passed in reciprocatory knitting for an angular extent of travel at least suificient to cause all needles to pass through the cams twice or nearly twice at each stroke.

A further object is that of forming such a toe by narrowing only and to provide mechanism effective in retiring end needles during narrowing to a level over the stitch cam sets while other inactive needles retain their stitches at a welt position.

Other objects include the provision of means to draw down needles picked to an inactive level along with causing all other needles to knit at a transition from knitting a first to a second tab.

Another object is that of devising a novel combination of stitch cams, picks and needle raise cams.

Other objects will become apparent from the following more detailed disclosure.

For a great many years the toes of circularly knitted hosiery have been formed by reciprocatory knitting while narrowing and then widening to shape the toe pocket, after which a small amount of added material has been knitted to serve for handling and for looping purposes. These ao-cailed loopers rounds have been formed in circular Work. The looping has normally been confined to the top of the foot, but in instances, notably in ladies seamless wear, the seam is located at the bottom.

According to certain older disclosures, e.g., the Henshall, United States Patent No. 388,678 of 1888, it has been suggested that one might form a toe by narrowing only, this being done first at the bottom and then the top of the foot section after which loopers rounds may be knitted, the resultant product being looped to close the toe. While this concept has been more or less complete insofar as the concept of a knitted article only is concerned, it does not appear that anyone has taught the art how to accomplish this desired result in a practical fashion, that is, in a commercial hosiery knitting machine.

According to the instant invention which relates more particularly to a method and mechanism by which such a toe is to be made in a machine of the S.C.P. and S.C.OP. type manufactured by Hemphill Co. of Pawtucket, Rhode Island and now Wildman Jacquard C0. of Norristown, Pennsylvania, a knitting machine of that type is provided with a yarn feeding and knitting station at least and preferably two or more such stations. The needles carried in a conventional needle cylinder are rotated past or through cams at said stations and also may be reciprocated through them, the angular extent of reciprocation being such that a group of needles may be passed through a cam set twice at a single stroke.

Selecting means and other needle control earns function in conjunction with pattern devices to control needles in positioning them for knitting a first tab and then a second tab and also, to govern other needles as to confine them to inactive paths when they are not to enter into active participation in knitting a tab.

Briefly, the toe is formed by knitting a first tab, preferably that at the instep side, upon one-half, more or less, of the total complement of needles. These are caused to pass through knitting cam means in reciprocatory knitting and knit once at each stroke, being rendered inactive at their other or second passage through the cams. Needles not active in knitting this instep tab are caused to pass through the cams in Welt position and thus merely hold their last drawn stitches.

Narrowing is effected by picks or other convenient means and the tab is thus shaped as desired. Needles picked up to an inactive level remain there until drawn down by special cam means devised for the purpose. This instep tab is knitted upon short butt needles.

When the instep tab is completed, the second tab is started on the long butt needles and at the sole side. First, a course is knitted on all needles in getting the needles which were picked out back to a knitting position or at least to a lower level. The selecting means is not used once the sole tab is really started and long butt needles are aifected by raise cams at either side of the stitch cams which are also modified to assist in getting needles to a pick engaging level. A special wing cam assists in elevating picked needles to their inactive height.

Knitting then continues on long butt needles, the selecting means being inactive and several courses are knitted narrowing as before until a desired length of tab is formed. The picks are then Withdrawn.

The needles picked up are then drawn down, a cam change is made so all needles may knit and, either with or without making a yarn change, the loopers rounds are started.

These loopers rounds are formed in any practicable number and, of course, the toe is later closed on a looper, sewing machine or the like. 7

The invention will now he described in greater detail by reference to a specific embodiment thereof as illustrated in the accompanying figures of drawing, wherein;

FiG. l is an elevational view showing a half hose of which the toe has been knitted according to the invention herein described and claimed.

FIG. 2 is a view showing the toe after it has been closed.

FIG. 2a is a view showing the toe as applied to a stocking in which the foot is knitted reciprocatorily throughout its full extent.-

FIG. 3 is a detail view of pattern cams which control certain of the movable needle cams.

PEG. 4- is a view showing details of a further part of this cam control, elements'being illustrated in their several positions.

FIG. 5 is a diagrammatic showing of needle and jack camsand butt pathways at the start of the first tab of a toe.

FIGS. 6-10 are corresponding views showing respectively, the second stroke in the first toe tab; following counterclockwise strokes; the last stroke in that first tab which is the start of the opposite one; the first counterclockwise stroke in that second tab; and the last course thereof or start of loopers rounds.

FIG. 11 is a view showing means for controlling the front needle raise cam.

FIG. 12 is a similar view of means to control the position of the front needle draw-down cam.

FIG. 13 is a view showing in plan means for controlling one of the needle raise cams at each reciprocation of the needle cylinder.

FIG. 14 is a plan view of the cylinder, needles and yarn feeding stations.

Patented Dec. 19, 1961 Now referring to FIGS. 1 and 2, the toe is shown in an article of hosiery knitted in both rotary and reciprocatory work, preferably in the well known Banner S.C.O.P. circular hosiery machine manufactured by Wildman Jacquard Co. of Norristown, Pennsylvania. Such a stocking has a top 20, preferably of simulated rib work incorporating an elastic yarn, a leg 21, heel 22 and foot 23. The heel may be formed by narrowing and widening in the usual manner.

While the toe need not be a part of a patterned stocking, nor need it be a part of a stocking patterned in some particular way, it is, however, specially adapted to be made as a part of hosiery in which a solid color pattern is also knitted. Here a pattern comprises diamonds 24 and 25 of different color from that of the leg and foot. The mechanism and method by which such a pattern is produced are now so well known that they need no further description here.

This pattern must, of course, be formed in reciprocation but the fabric preceding and following it is knitted in circular or straight away knitting. If desired, the pattern might start at the beginning of the leg 21 and could be continued to the toe. It does, however, extend into the instep portion or past the heel by preference. While the pattern shown consists of diamond-shaped figures, it is to be understood that countless other configurations are equally possible and the invention is by no means dependent upon a pattern or a particular pattern.

In FIG. 1, the toe comprises top and bottom tabs 26 and 27, each formed on one-half the full complement of needles, more or less, and by reciprocatory knitting and narrowing as will be described in detail.

FIG. 2 shows the toe closed, that being accomplished by linking in some suitable and practical way, at the loopers rounds 28, for example, by means of the conventional looper or sewing as in more conventional or special sewing machines adapted to the purpose. A seam 29, thus formed, may be of the same or a different type of yarn from that of the looper rounds. It may be elastic, that is, may comprise rubber of some form or may be one of the so-called stretch yarns which afford a considerable range of elongation.

The method and mechanism herein set forth is primarily designed to knit both the top and bottom tabs of a toe at a single yarn feeding station and in so doing, provides for reciprocating needles through that feeding station an earns thereat twice per stroke. By such an arrangement, an instep group and a heel group of needles top and bottom tabs) may be caused to knit, one to the exclusion of the other. As will be described, both groups may be controlled to narrow as desired.

Referring to FIG. 5, the various cams and selecting means will now be described. Needles 30, preferably of latch type, have butts 31, the latter being divided into two groups, long and short butts. The long butts are preferably identified with the heel or sole side of the stocking, with the short butts knitting at the instep. Each needle has a selecting jack 32 beneath it and these jacks have selecting butts 33, a master butt 34 and a plain sole butt 35. The selecting butts are capable of being broken out at will to set up a pattern and the plain sole butts are arranged in long and short butt groups.

There are two knitting and feeding stations in these machines, one designated as a regular or main feed and the other as an auxiliary feed. The regular feeding station has front and rear stitch earns 36 and 37 which are of special form as will be described. A center cam 38 also has a wing cam 39 mounted on it, the ends 40 and 41 of which are angled downwardly as shown to serve in raising picked needles to a level above cam 39.

Narrowing picks 42 and 43 are somewhat conventional and are controlled to be projected into and withdrawn from action. Needle raise cams 44 and 45 complete the group.

At the auxiliary side there are provided front and rear stitch earns 46 and 47, center cam 43 and raise earns 49 and 50.

While not shown, there are widening picks for cooperation with narrowing picks 42 and 43. They function in heel knitting and are conventional in construction, control and operation.

The needle cams above-mentioned are to be found in some form on all S.C.O.P. type machines although not in the identical form in each instance. in addition, for present purposes, there are provided at either side of the regular feeding and knitting group, needle raise earns 51 and 52 which are individually controllable to be withdrawn from action completely, and to be permitted to drop in to engage long butts only or both long and short butts.

Two other cams 53 and 54 designated needle drawdown cams may also be controlled to be moved in against the cylinder and withdrawn to an inactive position. When in active position they draw needles which have been moving in an elevated or instep pathway down to a level to pass up special surfaces on stitch earns 36 or 37 as the case may be; also, at such level to engage one of the narrowing picks if it were in active position.

Guard earns 55 and 56 function with earns 53 and 54 to assure that butts cannot engage the latter other than as intended.

A guard cam 57 also functions in the usual way above the auxiliary cam block.

Stitch cams at the regular feed are specially devised by forming them with their butt raising edges recessed as shown to provide a pocket within which the narrowing pick at that side is seated when in active position. This recess is guarded by a point or elevated butt raising portion 58 or 59 as the case may be. in action, the extra or added portion of a stitch cam raises the needle butts to an elevation at which a butt can enter the pick notch. The pick can then raise that needle until its butt engages the inclined part 40 or 4-1 of the wing cam 39, whereupon that needle will then be elevated to an inactive or instep level.

Four selecting units are provided, one in advance of each cam block, both at the front and back thereof so that a selection may be made at each reciprocatory knitting stroke and also at either feeding station. These are generally similar to those described in United States Patent No. 2,217,022 and contain a plurality of independently movable selecting plungers 60 engageable when pushed inwardly, with any selecting butts 33 passing in line therewith. When thus selected or raised, master butts 34 engage master cam 61 and are thereby elevated to raise their needles for substantially the same distance.

Cams 62 are jack levelling cams and earns 63 lower raised jacks by contact with butts 35. Cams 64 are for the purpose of lowering jacks to a safe position if a master butt should break. They act upon the plain sole butts 35.

Each of these selecting units is accompanied by a rotatable drum having pattern disks or other means thereon for actuating the plunger 60 according to a pattern. Each selecting unit is substantially identical with others and thus a description of one should sufiice. Of course, those at each station are oppositely disposed to select their jacks and needles before these enter their cams and one functions in each reciprocatory stroke. They may be removed from action at will and means other than the pattern drums may cause some or all plungers to be withdrawn or rendered active as a group, such means not being necessary of description here.

The needle raise earns 51 and 52 act upon long butt needles only and are, of course, movable into position on passage of short butts, that is, for purposes of knitting a toe according to the instant disclosure, although they may act upon all butts at other times. Actually, these cams act upon the long butt needles at one passage only through a cam set or station on any single stroke of knitting notwithstanding the fact those needles pass the same cams twice. Thus cams 51 and 52 are controlled by pattern means of any convenient type to be projected into butt engaging relationship and are withdrawn upon passage of that needle group after a single pass and are then maintained until the same point in the following cycle is reached, or until a change is made. The end drums of an S.C.O.P. or solid color type machine as in United States Patent No. 2,217,022 are preferably utilized for this purpose.

There is an overall control which permits these cams to become effective to a greater or lesser degree and also acts to withdraw them from having any effect at all.

That for the back cam comprises a control as shown in FIGS. 3 and 4. A slide 65 is guided for vertical motion as controlled by a lever 66 pivoted to the lower end of the slide at pin 67. This lever is itself pivoted at 68 to any suitable fixed part of the machine. At its oppo site end this lever has the usu-al't-oe or follower 69 which bears upon certain cams on a drum 70 fixed to cam shaft 71 and rotatable thereby as the latter is ratcheted in stepped movements at appropriate times as governedby the main chain or other master pattern control.

In FIG. 4 the earns 51 and 53 are shown, cam 51 being in to take long butts and cam 53 projected in against the needle cylinder. Cam 51 never engages short or medium butts since its movement isrli-mited by stop screw 72. The slide 65-is illustrated in three positions whichv it may occupy, these-positions being governedin accordance with the-presence of a cam on drum 70 under toe 69 and the height of that-cam onlwhich the toe may be resting.

Specifically. the cams on this drum control the functions of the rear needle raise and draw-down cams in various parts of a stocking as follows:

In FIG. 3 the toe 69 is resting on the drum itself in which position slide 65 is in topmost (full line) position. There both cams are in toward the cylinder, cam 53 being against it while cam 51 is in to take long butts only. At the same time slide 65 being in extreme upper position and cam 51 active, the raised needles will have been lowered preparatory to knitting a sole tab or just after completion of the instep tab. The latter is governed by cam section 73 after which section 74 lowers the slide all the way to pull out both cams 51 and 53, that is, during knitting a stocking leg. When toe 69 drops from cam 74 to earn 75 the slide again assumes intermediate position during heel knitting. At the end of the heel the follower rises up onto cam 76, the first part of which controls in knitting a foot between the heel and toe and the second part of which governs knitting the first toe tab which, as herein described, is the tab at the instep side.

Plain sole cams 77 and 78, FIG. 5, are controlled to be inserted and withdrawn in the usual way, see United States Patent No. 2,217,022. If desired, these may be used to nullify selection of certain jacks and may be used in toe knitting if required. I Cam 52 is primarily controlled by the mechanism of FIG. 11 in which the drum 70 on the main drum shaft and cams thereon act on a toe 79 of a bar 80 connected adjustably to a stepped cam 81. The latter having four steps can draw the cam '52. outwardly as the bar and toe are moved upwardly. The stepped part acts against an adjustable follower 82 attached to and extending laterally from the stem 83 of the cam. A spring (not shown) tends to pull the cam-in against the cylinder and a stop screw 85 limits its motion.

Cam 54, FIG. 12, is likewise urged inwardly by a spring and is drawn out byanother row of cams on drum 70, acting on bar 84 with a toe 85. This bar acts on the cam through a bell crank lever 86 pivoted at 87 and having one arm connected to the, bar and the other engageable behind a laterally extending follower 88 adjustably fixed to cam stem 89.

Thus there are three rows of cams on drum 70 which ultimately affect the earns 51, 53, 52 and 54. The cams shown in FIGS. 11 and 12 are oriented and labeled to of FIG.3.

. This general description of the drum, its cams and the. slide control is directed toward a general understanding of the mechanism which will be better understood later when a disclosure of actual timed operation of an entire cycle is given.

While the regular and auxiliary feeding stations have been referred to in a general way before, they were not described by reference to a figure in the drawings. At FIG. 14, a number of independently controlled yarn feeding fingers 90 are movable to and from position to feed their yarn to the needles and at the auxiliary side similar fingers 91 perform the same general function. These fingers are carried by the usual carrier ring 92 which is pivoted to be swung upwardly out of action in the usual way.

United States Patent No. 2,625,808 discloses a preferred mechanism which actuates these fingers in properly timed sequence.

The manner in which the needle raise cams are permittedto'come into and to be withdrawn from action at appropriate phases of the cycle have been described.

Now with reference to FIG. 13, it will be noted that the front raise cam 52 is additionally'influenced by linkage comprisinga bell-crank 93 pivoted on plate 94 and having a pivoted arm or extension 95 engageable with a pin 96 projecting upwardly from stem 83 of the cam and through a slot in the plate. This bell-crank is actuated to draw the cam out away from needle butts by cams 97 on end drums 98 acting on levers 99 pivoted at 100 to any con-' venient-fixed part of the machine. A link 101 interconnects lever 99 to bell-crank 93. The cams on drum 98 are so disposed as to draw the cam out to inactive position after butts have passed through so that on the second or other half of a more or less complete two revolution stroke they become ineffective, that is, they act only once per stroke.

A finger 102 at the upper end of a rod 103 lifts the arm 95 when it is not to be in use.

Now referring, to FIGS. 5 through 10, a description of the cycle of knitting will be given to convey an understanding of the operation of this mechanism and the method by which a toe according to the invention is pro- In these figures the cams are illustrated as seen looking outwardly from the inside of the needle cylinder. In FIG. 5 the first course for the instep tab is shown, it being understood that the foot has just been knitted in circular work at the regular or main feed. At the change, drum 70 has been given a 40 kick in the direction indicated, but, however, toe 69 merely moves to a different position along cam 76 still maintaining slide 65 In lowermost position at which neither cam 51 nor 53 is in position. Of course, cams 52 and 54 are likewise withdrawn. 9 At the first stroke in the tab after knitting in rotary work at the foot the stroke is in away a continuation of that rotary work or, at least, is a counterclockwise stroke. If the foot were patterned or knitted in reciprocatory manner, then it would follow a clockwise stroke.

Picks 42 and 43 are released to active position. Also, selecting units #1 and #4 become active so that jacks raise all short butts knitting at any time to engage the part 58 or 59 of the stitch cams as the case may be. Picks 42 and 43 raise the leading needle up to a height to engage above the wings 40 or 41 of the cam 39, thus narrowing at each stroke. I In selecting jacks for raising these instep tab needles, the bottom plunge'rs 60 and a lowermost selecting butt 33 function in a known manner, cams 61 acting on master butts 34 to elevate jacks and needles so the short butts of the latter engage the built up portions 58 and 59 of the stitch cams.

Since short butts are picked here and a swinging pick cannot raise a short butt needle too far, cam 39 has wings 40 and 41. The cam 39 is higher than cam 48 so these short butts cannot interfere with the latter. Cam surfaces at 58 and 59 elevate the butts to pick level which is the same level to which cams 51 and 52 raise them.

In this FIG. butt paths are shown in dot-and-dash lines the short butts passing up over the stitch cam 36, under center cam 38 and knitting under cam 37, the first or leading needle butt being picked up over cam 39 as shown. Those needles which do not knit (long butts) pass under cams 36 and 37 as shown.

At the auxiliary side no yarn is feeding and needles pass under the stitch cams merely retaining their stitches. The needles which are picked up pass over earns 39, 48 and under cams 55, 56 and 57.

Now referring to FIG. 6, the cams are effective in a clockwise stroke to knit the next course, the pick 43 raising the leading needle in that direction to an inactive level. Here the selector unit #4 functions, it being understood that the effective selecting plungers are drum controlled in the usual known manner prevailing in these S.C.O.P. type machine being utilized.

In either direction of rotation of the needle cylinder the short butt needles knit only once during each stroke, the plungers 60 being withdrawn to an inactive position prior to the second passage of these needles through the active selector units in a manner and by mechanism as is well known, and disclosed, for example, in United States Patent No. 2,217,022.

This action continues until narrowing has progressed to the desired extent, for example, down to about the usual one-third of the needles involved.

As an alternative form of the invention, needles at the short butt side may be of short and medium lengths so that the picks work on slightly longer butts. In this event it is preferred to pull the auxiliary cam block out at the start of knitting the tab. Then at the first course on the bottom tab (counterclockwise) this cam block is moved in on short butts to go in against the cylinder at the medium butts. Here the cam block gets into position well ahead of the first long butt. This is more desirable when knitting the foot in split work as is done with the instep and sole of different colors.

At the start of knitting the second or bottom tab and assuming a foot knitted in rotary work, drum 70 is moved 40 or until the toe 69 drops to the position of FIG. 3. At the same time cam 53 is released, also cam 51 although this latter cam may not go into position until the pattern cams on the end drum permit it to do so.

In front appropriate cams on the drum acting through mechanism of FIG. 12 release cam 54. Cam 52 is affected by mechanism of FIG. 11 and acts in a manner similar to cam 51.

Assuming no yarn change, and that the cam 54 moves in at the short butt needle zone although ahead of and not on them and when the cylinder is moving counterclockwise cam 54 immediately brings down'one group of inactive sho-rt butt needles, FIG. 7, and then at the next or clockwise stroke cam 53 will pull down the opposite short butt group, FIG. 8. Of course, in between these two actions cam 54 is withdrawn since drum 70 is moved again very quickly to raise toe 85 onto its cam. This latter is a 40 move.

Cam 53 is also withdrawn right after acting upon its needles and for that purpose, slide 65 is moved to intermediate position. Actually this cam is withdrawn very quickly after cam 54.

At this time yarn at the regular feed is knitted for one complete course.

Also, at this move the selector units #1 and #4 are withdrawn.

If a split type foot is being knitted and the toe tabs are to be of different color, then needles which had been picked up are pulled down in the same way and a yarn change is made in the center of the short butt needles. The yarn which has been knitting at the auxiliary side is dropped in at about the center of the short butts but does not knit until its needles pass through the regular cams. The rear stitch cam at the auxiliary side is then held out. This yarn is knitted for a full course and is withdrawn.

The picks are now brought into action and as shown in FIG. 9, cam 52 raises long butts onto stitch cam 36, the leading needle being picked over cam 39. At the opposite stroke (not illustrated) cam 52 functions and pick 43 narrows. Since the needles pass through the cam block twice at each stroke these cams 51 and 52 are pulled out at the second pass. Preferably this tab is narrowed to the same extent the top one is.

To knit loopers rounds cam 54 is released to drop in, FIG. 10, and cam 52 is also permitted to go in against the cylinder. The same yarn is presumed to be used although a yarn change can be made if desired.

Cam 54 draws down all the raised needles and all needles knit under stitch cam 37. These loopers rounds may comprise four, eight or other multiples of four courses.

The toe thus formed is now in condition to be closed by looping, seaming or the like and is especially adapted to being sewn since there is no pocket with looper line offset to one side. The symmetry of the tabs lends them to being superimposed in registry to be fed and guided into a sewing machine, sewed, and the excess material cut away and discharged. 'Thus,vclosing the toe becomes a task requiring much less skill, time and expense than has been necessary in looping. Of course, the toe may still be looped as easily or with greater ease than heretofore.

In actual practice it is preferred to divide those needles in the short butt group into two lengths, that is, short and a medium lengths of butts both of which are notably shorter thanthe long butts. This is an expedient often used and when reference is made herein to short butts or short butt needles, it is to be understood that the term includes that segment of needles having short and medium lengthed butts as contrasted to the group of long butts only.

While one embodiment of the invention has been disclosed, it is to be understood that the inventive concept may be carried out in a number of ways. This invention is, therefore, not to be limited to the precise details described, but is intended to embrace all variations and modifications thereof falling within the spirit of the invention and the scope of the claims.

I claim:

1. A method. of knitting a toe of a circularly knitted article of hosiery on a circular, independent needle, knitting machine having needles, a relatively rotatable and reciprocable needle cylinder, cam means and yarn feeding means, which comprises the steps of dividing the the needles into an instep group and a sole group, reciprocating said needles so that both groups pass said cam and yarn feeding means twice at each stroke, causing one group of needles only to take yarn and knit at said cam means at one pass only through the cam means and progressively retiring terminal needles from action to knit a narrowed tab, then while continuing to reciprocate said groups of needles past said cams, causing the opposite group to take yarn at one pass only through the cams while progressively retiring terminal needles of that group from action to knit a second narrowed tab opposite the first.

2. A method as defined in claim 1 wherein inactive needles are passed through said cam means in welt position and said retired'needles only are elevated above the cammeans.

3. A method as defined in claim 1 wherein, after completing the first tab all needles are caused to knit a complete course before commencing the second tab.

4. A method as defined in claim 1 wherein, after completing of the second tab needles are caused to take yarn in rotary knitting and thereby form a plurality of loopers rounds.

5. A method as defined in claim 1 wherein the progressive retiring of terminal needles to narrow is first effective upon a short butt group and secondly upon a long butt group of needles.

6. In a knitting machine the combination of knitting cam means and yarn feeding means, a needle cylinder, needles operatively carried in said cylinder, said cylinder and needles being rotatable and reciprocable relatively to said cam and yarn feeding means for such angular extent that needles pass through said cams and past the feeding means twice at each stroke of knitting, said needles comprising opposed differentiated groups and means at said cam and yarn feeding means for first knitting on one only of said difierentiated groups of needles once only at each stroke of knitting and then on the other group only of said needles and likewise, once only at each stroke, and means for narrowing the fabric knitted by each said group.

7. In a knitting machine the combination of knitting cam means and yarn feeding means, a needle cylinder, needles operatively carried in said cylinder, said cylinder and needles being rotatable and reciprocable relatively to said cam and yarn feeding means for such angular extent that needles pass through said cams and past the feeding means twice at each stroke of knitting, said needles comprising opposed long butt and short butt groups and means at said cam and yarn feeding means for selectively knitting upon first the short butt and then the long butt groups and for narrowing the fabric thus knitted by a single set of needle displacing picks.

8. Mechanism as defined in claim 7 wherein means for causing short butt needles to knit once at each reciprocatory stroke comprises jacks and jack selectors and cams for said needles for raising them to a level to engage the stitch cams for being elevated to clearing position thereby.

9. Mechanism as defined in claim 8 wherein means is provided for controlling needle raise cams to Withdraw and insert them to diiferent extents during a cycle of knitting and also to insert and withdraw them periodically during a single portion of said cycle.

10. Mechanism as defined in claim 7 wherein means for causing long butt needles to knit once at each reciprocatory stroke comprises needle raise cams movable to and from butt engaging position once at each stroke of knitting and effective to raise butts of said needles from a level in which they would pass below stitch cams to one in which they engage and pass up those cams.

ll. Mechanism as defined in claim 7 wherein needle draw-down cams, one operable in each direction of reciprocation are provided to return to an active level those needles displaced during narrowing.

12. In a knitting machine of the type described having a knitting cam set including front and rear stitch cams and a center cam, means to displace end needles in a group of active needles to an inactive level for knitting a narrowed tab which comprises swinging, butt engaging picks and Wing cams at either side of said center cam, said picks having such range of movement before releasing a butt as to elevate it from a point substantially midway of the height of a stitch cam to a wing cam, but not as high as the top of said center cam.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 388,678 Henshall Aug. 28, 1888 1,184,501 Williams May 23, 1916 1,790,632 Weidner Jan. 27, 1931 2,217,022 Lawson et al. Oct. 8, 1940 2,625,808 Green et al. Jan. 20, 1953 2,860,500 Crawford Nov. 18, 1958 

